Skiing the Montana Creek South Fork Trail

March 1st, 2010

We spent last weekend at a cabin on Benka Lake near Talkeetna. It’s always a great family get-away.

When we were up there this past summer, we hiked a little way out the Montana Creek South Fork trail, which is nearby. It was a family hike, so we didn’t make it very far. But on the map, it looked like if we had gone up that trail about eight miles, we’d get above treeline and would likely get some great views of the Susitna Valley, the Talkeetna mountains and the Alaska Range. I’d seen the trail on a snowmobiles trail map, and I thought it would be a good place to explore on skis. So I made a mental note to check it out at a later date.

I had a four hour window of play time during the kiddo’s nap on Saturday afternoon, and I headed straight for the Montana Creek trail. It turned out to be every bit as cool as I hoped. The trail was narrow and bumpy, but easily skiable on classic skis. Once I got above treeline, which took eight miles, 1500 vertical feet, and an hour and a half, the views were spectacular even with overcast skies. The trail fractured into a tangled mess of snowmachine tracks at this point. I tried to follow the oldest (firmest) tracks as I climbed higher, but it was soft, slow going. So I just toured around the hills for an hour or so before heading back down.

This ski was very similar to Willow Mountain, which makes sense since Willow Mtn is only about 20 miles south along the west edge of the Talkeetnas.

I shared the trail with about 20 snowmobiles. There was a big dump of snow two days before, so I was happy to have them breaking trail for me. You could have some incredible crust skiing up in those hills in the spring if it weren’t for the snowmobile ruts…but if it weren’t for the snowmobile trail, there’d be no easy way of getting up there. It’s well worth that price to explore such a cool area.

Photos…

 

South Fork Montana Creek Trail

 

Su-per Fans

February 20th, 2010

If you read my last post about being laid low for a couple of months, I am sure you understand how badly I have been needing to get out for a good, long ski.

My first bright idea was that I would do the Susitna 100. Not race it, just ski easy, enjoy the hospitality at the checkpoints, and treat it like a tour. A nice weekend vacation. But when I went to sign up, I realized that the entry fee was $350! Holy crap! That’s an expensive ski tour. Unless they are serving lobster and caviar at Flathorn, no thanks.

So I decided I would watch the race instead, and get in some skiing and camping along the way. I recruited my friend Bill and we headed to Point MacKenzie early Saturday morning.

We started at 9:00 AM, same time as the racers, but we gave ourselves a two mile head-start by parking at the snowmobile lot up the road from the race start. We were able to ski the course, and watch the lead racers go by us along the way. We hung pretty close to the leaders until we got to Flathorn Lake, then stopped for a bite to eat. Our goal was to make it to Luce’s Lodge on the Yentna River (about 40 miles into the race) for a burger, then decide where to camp.

I felt surprisingly good while skiing. Sure, we were just cruising and I was pretty tired by the time I got to Luce’s at 3:00 PM. But I was psyched to see that we were only 30 minutes behind the race leaders at that point.

Bill and I hung out at Luce’s for a couple of hours, enjoying delicious burgers and chatting with many of the racers. Around 5:00 PM we packed up and decided to head back down the Yentna for an hour or so before camping. That would give us a shorter ski back to the car on Sunday.

As we crawled into our sleeping bags at 7:30 PM, Chet Fehrmann, the race leader, skied by in the darkness. We cheered for him, and then cheered for bikers Pete Basinger and Lance Andre when they went by five minutes later. The cool thing about this year’s race was that the conditions were good for both skiers and bikers, making for an even and exciting race. I have a feeling Pete was just using this race for training for the Iditarod Trail Invitational, but it was exciting anyway.

Most of the other racers passed us by during the twelve wonderful hours that we slept. We relished the luxury of sleep that the racers did not have. By 9:00 AM we were packed up and back on the Yentna. A slight tailwind made the return trip a little easier. We passed a few runners, bikers and skiers on our way to the finish. At the finish we learned that Chet held off the bikers to win the race for the third year in a row. Congratulations Chet!

It was a great weekend. Beautiful weather, great ski conditions, and lots of fun hanging out with other people who enjoy recreating in semi-remote Alaska. Oh, how I’ve missed this.

 

Susitna 100 Camp-Out 2010

 

No Fun

February 19th, 2010

It’s been quiet around this blog for a couple of months. That’s never a good thing.

It’s been a tough winter for me because I’ve been dealing with some mysterious health issues.

In December I started feeling light-headed and I had a slight ache in my chest. After a week or two, I couldn’t ignore it anymore. I finally saw a doctor. He took a chest X-ray and an EKG. Upon seeing the EKG results, he immediately gave me a nitroglycerin tablet (not a good sign) and told me to head directly to the Emergency Room (also not a good sign).

[ FYI, if you ever need to bypass waiting your turn in the ER, the secret password is "chest pain." Man as soon as you say those words, the seas part and you are in a room in about three seconds. I didn't even have time to fill out paperwork. ]

In the emergency room, they did another EKG. As soon as the technician was done, he quickly pulled all the wires off my body and scurried out of the room. Immediately the room flooded with a half-dozen nurses who, without saying a word, raced to hook me up to more wires, and an IV, and even put defibrillator pads on my chest. I sat there in stunned silence. What the hell was going on?

Eventually we (fortunately Linda was there with me) figured out which one of these very concerned and focused workers was the doctor and asked her to explain the madness.

“Your EKG indicates you are having a heart attack,” was the very grim response.

Ummm, what!?! I was fairly certain that I was not in the middle of a heart attack, but just hearing those words was almost enough to cause one.

Over the next 20 hours I was subjected to a echocardiogram, many blood tests, a Cardiac Catheterization (where they basically stick a tube into the femoral artery, then guide it into the heart so they can look for heart disease - yikes!), and an overnight in the Intensive Care Unit.

Have you ever tried to sleep in a hospital when they have you hooked up to a pulse monitor? The damn thing is programmed to sound an alarm whenever the person’s heart rate goes below 50 beats per minute. If you are an athlete, that thing is going to be ringing like a call center in India! Eventually the nurse got sick of turning off my alarm, and she lowered the alarm threshold to 40 bpm. Apparently when I sleep my heart rate is about 38 bpm, which meant I spent the whole night dozing off, only to be jolted back awake every time I started sleeping soundly. Yeah, that was fun.

Anyway, I was sent home the next day after they were fairly certain I was in no immediate danger. In the two months since, the symptoms haven’t really changed. I have had many more doctors visits, and more tests, and still don’t know what is wrong. We’ve discussed many, many possible causes with the doctor. Everything from a virus or stress to a brain tumor or cancer. It’s been scary and stressful.

I’ve spent the past two months being really cautious with my exertion levels. But recently I’ve done a few harder workouts and it appears that the symptoms are not at all affected by exercise. In fact, I often feel better after a workout, for the same reasons almost everyone feels better after a workout.

So the current status is this: I still have a really bad looking EKG and minor chest pains. I am still worried and scared and pursuing a medical diagnosis. But I can no longer sit around hoping to feel better. I’m only making it worse by obsessing about it. I’ve got to get back to doing the things I love.

Here’s to hoping this blog won’t be silent much longer.

Skiing the Big Su and the Big Swamp

December 13th, 2009

I had a free day to do a long ski this weekend, so I rounded up some friends for a trip to the Susitna Valley. Bill, Rachel, JT, Scott are all either doing, or thinking about doing, the White Mountains 100 race in March, so they were eager to get out of town and ski some snowmachine trails.

We decided to head to Willow. There isn’t a lot of snow for cross country skiing anywhere in South-central Alaska right now. But I figured if anyone could create good skate ski conditions with the snow we have, it would be the good folks of the Willow Trails Committee. WTC did not disappoint, and the groomed trails impressed our whole crew.

We started at the Crystal Lake trailhead and headed down the Corral Hill trail to the Susitna River. Our goal was to complete some sort of loop, but not all the trails were in yet. So we headed south on the river to see what trails we could find. We had almost reached the Yentna River (and were thinking about turning around) when we found a trail headed east. That trail was narrow, rocky, and dirty, but after a few nervous minutes headed south, it swung back to the east and intersected with the Big Swamp trail as we hoped. Being back on the WTC-groomed trails, we had a sweet trail back up through the Big Swamp to Willow Swamp and back to the car.

It was a 36 mile loop that took us 5.5 hours, including a bunch of stops. Temps were -5 F at the trail head most of the day, and probably a fair bit cooler on the river in the morning. The glide was surprisingly good, in spite of the cold snow. It was a great day to be out in the sunny Su Valley, escaping the ice fog in Anchorage.

Photos and maps in the gallery:

 

Sking the Willow Trails

 

Nordic skating on Duck Flats

November 8th, 2009

I used to start hoping for snow as soon as the weather turned cool. Now each year I hope for a few weeks of cold weather before any snow falls. Why? For ice skating! Not the go-around-in-circles kind of ice skating. No, I’m talking about cruising for miles at a time on nordic blades.

Today, Tim and I explored the Duck Flats area at the head of Knik Arm. I’d heard that the skating there last year was phenomenal. Since it hasn’t been very cold this fall, we were concerned that we might be a little too early. But since nordic skating has such a short window of time, we decided to give it a go anyway.

The ice was not good. To get to Duck Flats you have to skate down Rabbit Slough for a few miles. On the slough, there were multiple layers of ice. The base layer was thick, but the top layer was not. Most of the time the top layer held our weight, despite lots of creaking. But occasionally we’d break through and have a split second to wonder if it was going to be wet or dry underneath. Luckily, our feet only got wet a few times. The ice was also gritty from lots of wind, which made it very slow in many spots.

Out on the Duck Flats, the ice was solid as long as we avoided vegetation, but it had been windy when the ice froze out there, so it was bumpy and dirty. A few smooth spot were found, but as Tim said, we should have brought our full-suspension skates!

But in spite of the conditions, we still managed to skate for about 20 miles and explore a really cool area, so the day was a success. When the ice is smooth and hard, this area would be amazing.

Of course, Tim’s the star of my pictures. If you want to see pictures of me, go to Tim’s 2010 Skiing (and skating!) page.

 

Skating Duck Flats

 

My Favorite Run In The World

October 15th, 2009

My favorite run is not long.  It clocks in at a modest one hour and twenty minutes.

My favorite run does not climb big mountains. The elevation gain is less than one thousand feet.

My favorite run does not have lots of expansive views. It only has two viewpoints.

Obviously, based on what I’ve said so far, my favorite run in the world is not in Alaska.

My favorite run is not a secret, it is hiked by hundreds of people every week.

My favorite run in the world is not an exciting new route. I first did it when I was six years old.

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Most of my favorite adventures are off the beaten path. I like adventures that are little too long, too hard, or too far-flung for most people. But my favorite run in the world is none of those things. There is nothing epic about it at all. It’s comfortable, like an old sweatshirt on a Saturday morning.

On my wedding day, I made all the guests do this run (or hike) with me.

My favorite run is located on the shores of Squam Lake, NH. It starts with the Five Finger Point trail, then goes up East and West Rattlesnake “mountains.” Growing up, I spent all of my summers at a family camp on Squam Lake, and it is my favorite place in the world. I did this run at least a couple of times every week when I was in my teens. Nostalgia is a big part of why it is my favorite, but it’s also a perfect everyday loop. Interesting, but not overwhelming. Tiring, but not exhausting.  And while the only viewpoints are at the tops of the Rattlesnakes, the view-to-effort ratio is the best I’ve found anywhere.

Last month, while we were back east, we spent three days at the camp on Squam. I did my run every day. As always, I followed each run with a swim in the lake, and then a big meal at the dining hall. Maybe that’s why it’s my favorite.

Winner Creek to Twenty Mile packraft hike

September 17th, 2009

Well, I think I’ve finally come to terms with the fact that there will be no big packrafting trips for me in 2009.  I kept holding out hope for “next weekend.”   But it didn’t happen. My injury kept me from making plans too far in advance, and by the time I was healthy,  the weekends were all booked up with other plans.  Remember my post about the best six months to be in Alaska (March-August)?  I spent  five of those six months hobbled.  Nice job jinxing myself.

But even if there were no epic trips to be had, I wanted to take my raft for a hike at least once this year.  So when Bill mentioned that he and Chris were going to do Twenty Mile this past weekend, I jumped at the chance to go with them.   This trip is an old standby, easily done as a day-trip from Anchorage.  Its an easy and very scenic trip, and it has a tiny bit of route-finding and swiftwater to make it interesting.

putting in on the river

Hiking time: 4 hours
Boating time: 3.5 hours
Total trip time: 8 hours
River level:  19.42 ft   3.15 cfs
This level was a little lower than when I have done the river previously.  This made the first several turns in the river easier, and still without too much bottom-scraping.

For those thinking of doing this trip, check out my other trips on this route, and also this note that I posted on the Alpacka forums:

There is a new (to me anyway) false trail to watch out for on the hike down to the river.

About halfway down from the pass to the river, we came upon a patch of tall grass where the trail appeared to take a sharp left hand turn, just before a patch of alders. “That’s funny, the trail didn’t go that way last time,” I thought. Every time I had done this trip previously, I had bushwhacked straight for about 25 yards through the alders to where a pretty good trail picks up again in the hemlocks. But even so, the new trail to the left looked well-trodden. I knew better, but it was too tempting - we gave the new trail a try. After about five minutes, it worked its way back to the creek and then began to peter out as people’s paths took different routes to skirt along the top of the creek gorge. After ten minutes we gave up and went back to the original trail, which was as good as ever.

Not sure why that new trail is there. Were people scouting/running the creek? It’s gnarly up that high.

Anyway, this isn’t a big deal, but hopefully this will help others avoid wearing in a trail that, as far as I can tell, goes nowhere. Bust through the alders, its much better on the other side.

Chris and Bill at the fork in the trail, after our short detour

It was rainy all day, but the clouds were just high enough to see the mountains.  It was a great time, and I was happy to be in my boat, hanging out with great company.  A great finish to a less-than-great summer of adventure.

So maybe I didn’t get as much done this summer as I hoped.  Winter is coming and bringing a whole new set of adventures with it!   (I hope I didn’t just jinx myself again.  Dammit.)

Caines Head Alpine Trail

September 14th, 2009

I spent the Labor Day weekend camping with family and friends at Caines Head State Recreation Area, on Resurrection Bay south of Seward. On Sunday, we did a really cool hike up the Alpine Trail. Despite rave reviews in guidebooks and online trail guides, this hike is still relatively unknown. I think it ranks among the best trail hikes in Alaska.

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The trail from Caines Head to above treeline is three miles (plus an additional 4.5 miles if you are starting from Seward instead of Caines Head or Derby Cove). Once you get above treeline, there are tons of cool glacial ridges and gullies to explore, a few small tarns, and spectacular views of Resurrection Bay and Callisto Peak.

photo: Jen Jolliff

At one of the tarns, the kids and moms stopped to wade in the water and scramble on the rocks, while Ian and I explored the southern flanks of Callisto Peak. Lots of amazing features to see up here. Gorges, glaciers, cliffs… and that’s before even raising your head to gawk at the views of Resurrection Bay.   Ian and I hiked up to the southern ridge of Callisto, where we were treated to a spectacular view of Bear Glacier and the gigantic icebergs floating in its glacial lake. For me, it was the “view of the summer” and one of the best glacier views I’ve ever seen. Unfortuantely, in our haste to drop our kid packs and start exploring, Ian and I both left our cameras behind. Damn! So I can’t share that view with you. The best I can do is show you a couple of pictures of what the view looks like in winter (thanks to Matt Faust). These pics are taken from the top of Callisto rather than the ridge, but you get the idea. Its even more dramatic in the summer with greenery and blue water to offset the white ice. 

I highly recommend checking out this hike if you are in the Seward area. The views are as good as Lost Lake or Exit Glacier/Harding Icefield, but with a lot less people. And if you do go, please send me a picture of the Bear Glacier view! I want that shot in my photo album. Maybe I’ll just have to go back. Sigh.

Mountain Orienteering 2009

August 17th, 2009

2009-mountain-o

The turnout for the Arctic Orienteering Club’s annual Mountain O event is usually low (45 people this year, only 8 on the long course).  I think this is because people don’t really understand the Mountain O.    Orienteering itself confuses a lot of people.  Mix in some mountains as well, and people figure it best to avoid the whole thing.    But in my opinion, the Mountain O is the most fun race of the summer.  It’s basically a big treasure hunt in the mountains.  Plus, it only costs $6.  You can’t beat that exercise/price ratio!  Anyone who loves to run or hike in the mountains should give it a try.  There are usually short and long course options, to fit your fitness, navigation, and motivation levels.

As I sat at home last night feeling battered, bruised and exhausted from this year’s event, I started thinking that this little-known event can hold its own when compared to some of the most infamous mountain running races in Alaska.

Crow Pass Crossing: 24 miles, 3890′ elevation gain,
Powerline Pass race: 13 miles, ~4000′ elevation gain,
Matanuska Peak Challenge: 14 miles, 9000′ elevation gain
2009 Mountain O Long Course: 16.8 miles (mostly off-trail), 5600′ elevation gain

More than anything, I was just trying to justify the fact that the race had left me pretty wasted.

The start and finish were at the Glen Alps trailhead of Chugach State Park.   You know its going to be a big day when, twenty-five minutes into the race, you are standing on top of Flattop and you’ve only covered 1/10th of the race distance and found two of the 19 controls.  I ran most of the way with Ian Moore, who is both a faster runner and a better navigator.  There were a bunch of controls early on that were “tricky” at best, and “misplaced” at worst.  One by one, we’d all get to the spot where the control should be, then wander until someone stumbled on it.  That allowed me to stay within sight of Ian while we completed most of the climbing.  Then we ran together for a couple hours after that.  Ian and I have both been battling ankle injuries recently, so we ran a bit gingerly on our feet in the rocky terrain, wondering how long our legs would hold.

After three hours of racing, we had traversed the Flattop Ridge to Ptarmigan Pass, descended into Rabbit Creek valley, started up the base of McHugh Ridge, then crossed back through Ptarmigan Pass to Powerline valley.  As Ian and I crossed Powerline valley, we took slightly different routes.  I was sure we’d reconnect in a matter of seconds, like we had many times before.  But all of a sudden, I was alone.  I never saw Ian again.  I suspected that he had ankle problems and dropped back.  But I also knew Ian’s skills as an orienteer, and it was completely possible that he was ahead of me and I simply couldn’t see him.   As I approached the finish at Glen Alps, it would not have surprised me a bit to see Ian standing there, already done.   But, as I suspected, he had experienced a shooting pain through his leg and then dialed it back after that.   My legs, for their part, were sore but feeling as good as I could have hoped for at the finish.

I completed the course in four hours.  Times on the long course varied up to six and a half hours, possibly even longer for those who didn’t finish.  A long day for everyone!  Congrats to Lindsey for being the only woman to complete the long course (3rd place overall) and Jen for winning the short course.

2009 Mountain Orienteering Results

All the participants deserve congratulations for surviving a challenging course that was made even more difficult by fog and tricky controls.  But it was still a lot of fun.  Come join us next year!

Packrafting: Startin ‘em early (and a bit later)

August 14th, 2009

Last month we introduced the kiddo to the wonderful world of packrafting.

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And last week, we had three generations  out in the rafts, paddling among the ‘bergs.

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