Archive for the ‘Paddle’ Category

Packrafting the East Fork of the Chulitna

Tuesday, August 17th, 2010

Well, it took until mid-August, but I finally got away for a little while.

This past weekend, Rob and I both had a free day and a craving to do some packrafting. We decided to go hit the East Fork of the Chulitna river. We’d heard that the East Fork is a great packraft river, and we also knew that there were a lot of hiking route options to get to that water. We didn’t have a lot of info on any of the hiking routes, so in the end we picked the route we thought looked best on the map.

The whole trip was spectacular. The hiking, the boating, the weather… all perfect.

It was quite jarring - shocking even - to wake up Sunday morning in Broad Pass to clear skies. The hike only got better from there. We explored two beautiful alpine valleys, crossed two scenic mountain passes, traversed a ridgeline, and had a fun scree descent, all while basking in the only sun of the summer. Along the way we saw a dozen sheep, a dozen caribou, a sow grizzly with two cubs, two porcupines, a few bald eagles, and a whistling army of marmots. In six hours of hiking, we only bushwhacked for, at most, fifteen minutes. And even then, it was very mild bushwhacking (well, except for the wasp incident…).

Just over a dozen miles later, we descended to the East Fork of the Chulitna, about a mile above the confluence with Crooked Creek. Initially, we thought that section might be too bony for floating, but after walking downstream a few hundred yards, we decided to give it a try. We were glad we did, because it was bouncy Class II butt-boating at its best. The water smoothed out a bit when Crooked Creek came in, until we reached the two canyons of class III water. The canyons were tremendous fun. We even did a few sections more than once. After that, it was mostly bouncy waves down to the Parks Highway.

At the highway, we grabbed our stashed bikes and pedaled nine miles back up the highway to Rob’s truck. By this time, the clouds had moved back in, and the rain started just as we pointed the truck south towards Anchorage. The weather window had closed, but we had put every minute of it to very good use.

Hike:
12.7 miles (plus a spur to bag a peak and another detour to look for a lost hat)
6 hours without much stopping
~5500′ of vertical
Great walking with almost no bushwhacking or scrambling

Packrafting:
16 miles of splashy class II, with two fun class III canyons.
4.5 hours, including scouting and playing a bit.
A great river for intermediate boaters looking to try a taste of class III water.

Total trip, including bike shuttle:
37.5 miles
12.5 hours
5 stars

A couple more comments about the route…

We didn’t dally much, so some might find this more enjoyable as an overnight trip. It’s also worth saying that even though the reviews on Packrafting forum give this trip great marks, I think they are under-selling it. It is probably the most fun day trip of hiking and rafting that I have done. A classic for sure.

View a map and more photos:

 

Chulitna East Fork Packrafting

 

Watch Rob enter the second canyon:

Second canyon - East Fork of the Chulitna from Cory Smith on Vimeo.

Whitewater Rescue Class

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009

Just finished a four day Whitewater Rescue class designed for packrafters.  Excellent hands-on class with lots of swimming in Eagle River.  Glad some of my buddies took it too.  There is another course coming up this weekend.  I highly recommend it for all packrafters.

Packrafting: Startin ‘em early (and a bit later)

Friday, August 14th, 2009

Last month we introduced the kiddo to the wonderful world of packrafting.

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And last week, we had three generations  out in the rafts, paddling among the ‘bergs.

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Bard Peak paddle-climb

Tuesday, August 11th, 2009

Aaaahhhhh.      

That noise you hear is me letting out a loud, contented sigh.  Finally, after five long months, I made it back into the mountains of Alaska.  My main goal as I was rehabbing my Achilles tendon was to heal well enough and quickly enough to do some peak-bagging before summer was over. If I could just bag a peak or two, summer would not be a total loss.   By early August, I was feeling ready and the weather was looking good. So Tim Kelley and I got together for a hike.

Tim suggested Bard Peak, which he had done before.  If you’ve ever gone to the Portage Glacier Visitors Center and looked across Portage Lake, you’ve seen Bard Peak. Here’s a picture of it in winter time. Bard Peak is the pointy one on the left.

Bard Peak is fairly close to home and seen by hundreds of people every day, but rarely climbed.  It would provide enough vertical gain, bushwhacking, and rock scrambling to give my legs a good test without too many unknown-territory variables.

We accessed the peak by paddling across Portage Lake. The paddling made for great bookends to a spectacular hike.  Check my photos below, and of course also check Tim’s trip photos.

 

Bard Peak

 

It feels good to be back at home with sore muscles and a few scrapes on my arms and legs, enjoying the afterglow of a long-awaited peak-bagging outing.

Professional Backpacker: The perfect job?

Friday, July 10th, 2009

Andrew Skurka’s office definitely has a better view than mine does.  He’s currently in Alaska and recently hiked from Hope to Homer.  Then he turned around and headed north through Kenia Fjords, the Chugach mountains, and is currently in the Talkeetna mountains on his way to Cantwell.  Check out his Spot page to follow his progress.  http://www.andrewskurka.com/

Early leader in the clubhouse…

Friday, July 3rd, 2009

…for “This Year’s Adventure I Envy Most”: Nabesna to McCarthy bikepackraft

Chulitna Float Trip

Thursday, June 18th, 2009
chulitna raft float

Last weekend I floated the Chulitna River with a large group of guys. It was a bachelor party, which means “what happens on the river, stays on the river.” Sorry, no stories here.

The only reason I’m posting this is because I use this website as my outdoor journal. When I can’t remember how far a trip was, or how long it took me, I look it up on in my blog. I think the Chulitna offers some great opportunity for family float trips or short packrafting runs in the future, so I want to make sure I’ve got some of the vitals written down.

If you’re looking for info on floating the Chulitna, this might help. If you are looking for sordid tales of debauchery… man, o man have you come to the wrong place.

We put in on the East Fork at the Parks Highway about 4:30 PM on Friday. We floated for about two hours to our first camp at Honolulu Creek. This nine mile section (and the next several miles after the camp site) were wavy Class II. Quite a few boulders created holes and eddies to practice in. There were some sweepers which were easily avoided. This section was a lot of fun.

On Saturday we floated about 30 miles in seven hours, including stops. The river became braided and flat, but was still moving between 5-7 mph depending on the spot. We camped on a huge gravel bar in the middle of the river. Sunday we floated about 20 miles in four and a half hours (with fewer stops) to complete the 60 mile trip. We took out at the highway bridge near the Princess Lodge. The Tokositna river came in about an hour and half before the takeout.

There is no gauge on the river, but flow appeared to be average for this time of year.

Packrafting Montana Creek

Monday, June 1st, 2009

One way that I have consoled myself during my healing process has been to think about packrafting. Of all my favorite activities, its the only one I figured I could do while injured. Well, maybe not the “packing” part, but definitely the “rafting” part. I’ve been scouting road-accessible floats that don’t require any hiking. And now that I am starting to bike again, that will open up a few more options. With my leg on the mend, I am ready to jump into the boat again.

Linda’s parents are currently visiting us for two weeks. We took them to a cabin on Benka Lake near Talkeetna this past weekend. One of the things we give up by living in Alaska is having grandparents (aka free babysitters) nearby. So when they come to visit, we generally exploit them so that Linda and I can have some play time, sans toddler. This time, Linda and I were able to sneak away during the little one’s nap for a short packraft/bike ride loop near the cabin.

Linda on Montana Creek

Linda on Montana Creek

We put in on Montana Creek at the Yoder Road bridge and floated eight miles down to the Parks Highway. It was a decent float at the 6.13 foot water level, but lots of strainers and sweepers in the river kept it from being truly fun rafting. Without the wood, it would be a leisurely class I-II float. As is, the obstacles make it a solid class II that requires attention to each bend in the stream. There were about 5 places we had to get out and bushwhack around trees that had fallen across the entire creek. It was similar to the lower part of Willow Creek just before the Parks Highway. The photo is from one of the rare sections without any strainers when I had enough time to get out the camera.

The most excitement came when we spooked a mother moose with calf. She darted across the creek in front of us and up onto the opposite bank. Baby followed, but couldn’t lift himself out of the water. As baby struggled with front legs on the bank, hind legs in the 3-foot deep water, momma moose charged towards me as I tried to float by. When I became convinced she was about to jump into the water and stomp on me, I bailed onto a gravel bar on the opposite bank and ran back upstream. Momma continued to parallel me, but thankfully she stayed on her side of the creek. Baby eventually got up onto the bank after a couple minutes of trying, and they both quickly disappeared into the woods.

When we reached the Park Highway, we grabbed our previously-stashed bikes and rode 8 miles back up to the cabin off Yoder Road. It was a fun little nap-time outing. A perfect warm-up run, since we hadn’t been in our boats since last summer. Two hours of rafting, half an hour of biking.

I was glad to finally be doing an activity where I didn’t need to worry about my leg. I wore my leg brace so I’d be prepared for those times when I needed to jump out of the boat, and it was fine the whole time.

Even better, I was glad to be able to have an outing with Linda. Its a rare treat when we get to packraft together these days. Biking and hiking are easy to do with a two-year old. Packrafting, not so much - he really hates it when I bungee-cord him to the bow.

Turnagain Pass to Spencer Glacier Packrafting Hike

Friday, August 1st, 2008

Last summer, Ian and I tried to hike from Turnagain Pass to Spencer Glacier Lake, then packraft out the Placer River. I call this trip “Center2 Spencer” (Center to Spencer) because the route is Center Ridge to Center Creek to Spencer Glacier. Its as clever as I could get.

Unfortunately, we had to turn back at the pass near Tincan Peak, above Center Ridge. The cliff was a little too high and we didn’t have the right gear. So its been on my list to complete this summer. Friday was a nice day, so we jumped at the chance to do it again. We also took along Bastien, an orienteer who is visiting from France.

This time we made it. It was a great trip, but I’d be remiss if I didn’t tell you that some parts sucked. The bushwhack up to the top of Center Ridge wasn’t fun, but it was only half an hour. And after that, the walking on Center Ridge was great. Going over the pass was a challenge, but was made much more doable by good snow conditions and the fact that we had ice axes. The walking on the other side of the pass was easy-going with spectacular views, except for one steep bushwhacking section just before Center Creek Pass. And then, of course, the descent from Center Creek to Spencer Lake was awful. Some of the nastiest bushwhacking I’ve done. If they ever build the proposed whistle-stop trail down this slope, this could become a classic packraft trip. But not until then.

The trip took a total of 11 hours. We hiked quickly, but didn’t push the pace, and we stopped for a few snack breaks. We had a great time and made the most of a rare sunny day. Check out the photos for more details. Thanks to Bill for giving us info from his ski trip on this route in June.

 

Center 2 Spencer

 

Packrafting Resurrection Creek

Sunday, July 20th, 2008

Toby and I decided to go packrafting on Sunday. After looking at the weather forecasts (cloudy, chance of rain, same as every day this summer) and the river levels (high, from rain), and my recent luck (or lack thereof) on new routes, we decided to stick to a known entity. Recently, a number of people have raved about Resurrection Creek in Hope, so we decided to head down there and check it out.

We parked at the Resurrection trailhead and walked upstream past the impressive river restoration project. After scouting a canyon, and deciding that it was more than we were interested in tackling, we put in just below the canyon.

Wow, was it fun! The restored section of the river had quite a few boulders that created big (for a packraft) waves and holes. We had a great time hitting the drops and popping in and out of eddies. After the restoration area, the river eases slightly, and the rest of the run (about 8-9 miles total) is fast and lively but without any major dangers until near the very end. There was very little wood until the last half mile, where we encounted a number of strainers and sweepers. Some were across the whole river and we had to portage around them. I could have done without that part, but it was well worth it for the rest of the run. We completed the loop with a bike shuttle back to the parking lot.

The water seemed to be pretty high. Where we took out in Hope, the river was above its banks and flowing through the willows. There is no gauge on the creek, but nearby Six Mile was at 10.8 feet. My best guess is that the restoration section was easy class III at this level, and the rest was fun class II.

Because the river kept us busy, I didn’t take many pictures. So all I’ve got to show you is this one picture of Toby near the end of the run.