Another great ridgeline in Chugach State Park, excellent views of the front range.
Click here for a full screen version.
Thanks to Ian and Josh for waiting for me. Not my best day.
Another great ridgeline in Chugach State Park, excellent views of the front range.
Click here for a full screen version.
Thanks to Ian and Josh for waiting for me. Not my best day.
The alarm clock crowed rudely at 4:00 AM. On a Saturday. I fought back by hitting the snooze bar a couple of times.
The Penguin Ridge hike has been on my to-do list for a long time. Tim Kelley first recommended it to me years ago. Like many other local Chugach hikes, I always figured that some weekend, when I had a little extra time, I’ll knock it off my list. But, funny thing, when you have two little rugrats there is never “extra time.” I decided to start at an ungodly hour, so that I could be back on Dad duty by lunch. I left the Bird Creek parking lot just after 5:30 AM.
I knew from previous reports that this ridge offered a lot more vertical and a lot more scrambling than what you can see from the road. But even so, I was surprised how much scrambling there was. I thought that once I got a mile or two past Penguin Peak, I’d be tundra-running the rest of the way. Nope. I should have known better – after all this is the Chugach. The ridge is narrow, rocky and loose enough that you need to go slow, watch your footing, and occasionally scramble, all the way from Penguin Peak until you are directly above the Girdwood turn-off on the highway.
I briefly thought about descending here, as Roman suggests. But I couldn’t resist the urge to see what was around the next corner, then the next… I’m glad I kept going, because the terrain got easier and I could move faster, as the ridge headed northeast, paralleling the road into Girdwood. The terrain is a lot more nuanced here, a wide ridge with lots of tundra-covered rises, depressions and a beautiful lake. Great for running. The scenery is better too, as you are looking away from the highway and into the heart of the Chugach.
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360 degrees from the top of Penguin Peak
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I knew that finding the California Creek trail for the descent was going to be difficult because it is very over-grown. I never did find it. After wandering above brush-line for almost an hour, I finally gave up and picked the drainage that had the shortest distance between open tundra at the top and evergreen canopy at the bottom. Once in the drainage, I found the easiest thing to do was walk in the creek. The California Creek valley is notorious for bears, so I was yelling constantly to overcome the noise of the creek. So, yes, I was doing the same thing these kids did just a few hours later up in the Talkeetnas. [ Shudder ] Just when my feet were going numb from the water, I arrived in the spruce and hemlock forest, which was open for fairly easy walking. I quickly hit “Abe’s Trail” which took me to the California Creek trailhead. It turned out to be a very mild descent by bushwhack standards, and possibly better than the overgrown trail would have been.
I jogged into town and met the family, who had been playing at the Girdwood playground. Unfortunately for them, Dad was a little less than energetic that afternoon.
View Map & Stats on Endomondo
15 miles, 8 hours (includes one mile/one hour of wandering to find Ca. Creek trail)
Notes:
I was glad I went west to east, so that I hit the rocky stuff early when I was still fresh. I was hiking into a decent headwind the whole way, but it wasn’t a big deal. It is nice to end in Girdwood and grab some food. A classic Chugach hike, spoiled slightly by the sight and sound of Seward Highway traffic along the way.
On Sunday I needed to be in Girdwood for dinner, but I had just enough time for a short hike on the way there. I decided to go up Rainbow, which is one of my favorites along Turnagain Arm.
The hike was great, with oodles of unexpected sunshine. I didn’t bring a camera, but when I got to the top, I whipped out my phone and took this picture (click and drag the picture to spin 360 degrees):
Click here for a full screen version.
It took me a long time to succumb to getting a smartphone, but I really enjoy how easy it makes documenting my trips. No longer do I need a camera, cell phone and GPS in my pack (though I still carry a better camera on occasion). It took me about 30 seconds to snap this picture, and it uploaded to the web as I began my decent. The quality is not a good as some of the panoramas I’ve stitched together in Photoshop, but for quick little trips like this it works great.
While we’re on the subject, I’ll share my absolute favorite smartphone app: Endomondo.
This embedded map of my Rainbow hike is very cramped, click here for a full screen version.
Maybe its a hold-over from my years of keeping a training log, or maybe its my fascination with maps, but I love to document my routes. Endomondo makes it easy to map your routes and see all the vital statitics of your workout. It’s as easy as using a stopwatch. There are many, many apps that do this, but Endomondo is my favorite. (In truth, they won me over when I saw that they had both “Roller skiing” and “Orienteering” as workout types.) So now I can keep a record of all my workouts with minimal effort.
One additional cool feature is Live Tracking via the web when you are within cell phone range. So if I get “lost” and my 45 minute run somehow turns into 2 hours (when I am supposed to be watching the kids and cooking dinner), my wife can see exactly where I am (and thus be mad instead of worried). Well, sometimes its a cool feature. Of course, there are privacy settings so you can control who sees your maps.
Oh, and if you try Endomondo, make sure you add me as a “friend.” It is surprisingly motivating to see other peoples workouts. I added this Rainbow hike as a public route, which means you can try to beat my time and become Route Champion! Wahoo!
Crust skiing is hard to predict. That is part of the attraction, and it adds to the thrill when you nail a perfect crust day.
2011 was a relatively low snow year in southcentral Alaska, and it seemed that the general consensus was that the lack of snow would result in a poor crust season. But snow is only one factor that goes into baking good crust. Clear, sunny weather is just as important, and April this year had a lot of clear, sunny weather. As a result, there was a lot of good crust to be found this spring. It just goes to show that we should never try to predict crust conditions more than 12 hours in advance.
But the predictions were right about one thing – my crust season wasn’t very good. The sunny weather just didn’t seem to mesh with my schedule. This is why I am continuing my campaign to make every sunny day in April a state holiday.
But I did get out a few times to the usual spots: Portage, Center Creek, Glen Alps. And last weekend, Tim’s photos tempted Bill, Chris and I into a great day at Dogsled Pass.
Here is a “quick hits” photo gallery of my crust season 2011:
(* – well, not quite Indian…)
One of my main concerns for the upcoming White Mountains 100 is my Achilles tendon. It has been two years since I tore it, and I haven’t had a single problem with it in well over a year, but recently I’ve started to worry about it anyway.
See, when I was training for the Iditarod Invitational, all of my long workouts were skate skiing. I figured that if I needed to shuffle along, classic style, at times during the race, I could do that just fine. But I didn’t anticipate having to shuffle for hundreds of miles. My feet, ankles, knees, and – yes -Achilles, were not ready for that. Eventually the Achilles gave out.
So now, leading up to the White Mountains 100, once again all of my long skis have been skating. But what if the snow is squeaky cold? What if there is a foot of new snow the night before the race? What if the trail is simply too narrow to skate? My leg aches when I think about it. So, it was time to squeeze in one more long training workout – classic style.
On a related note, I’ve had an idea for a while now to do the Arctic Valley to Indian ski, a very popular backcountry route behind Anchorage, but as a loop starting at Hillside – without the car shuttle. You could use city trails to get to Muldoon, then up the 5-mile trail to Arctic Valley, across the regular Arctic to Indian trail, and then instead of dropping down to Indian, go up and over Ship Pass, down to Glen Alps and back to Hillside.
This loop would certainly fit my criteria of a long classic ski with lots of climbing. But Saturday’s conditions weren’t good for the Muldoon to Moose Run section, and I was short on time – I only had a six hour window, so I skipped the city section and got dropped off at the bottom of the 5 mile trail, where Arctic Valley road starts to climb. The full loop will have to wait for another day.
The 5-mile trail was decent skiing. The first kilometer was a hard-packed mess of wavy bumps caused by sledders, but after that I was skiing up a trail that had been packed only by a couple of snowboarders. It turns out snowboarders make a pretty good trail for skiers when they don’t have to turn or push much. The Arctic to Indian trail was in excellent shape, very enjoyable skiing on classic race skis and extra blue wax. Breaking trail up to Ship lake wasn’t bad because most of the snow was hard and wind-blown (sastrugi). Hiking up to Ship Pass was a little sketchier than I would have liked. The recent sun and wind made the snow rock-hard and glazed in spots on that steep slope. Definitely wished I had either an ice axe and/or crampons. The run down to Glen Alps was also a lot of sastrugi. No carving turns, just holding on while the skis chatter away. Then a straight shot down to Hillside and a walk to my house to finish off the day.
Here is a link to a map and statistics. 29 miles, somewhere between 4000 and 5000 feet of climbing, total time 6:00:31
It was a fabulous day. Great snow, great sun, and I did it in exactly 6 hours so I wasn’t late getting back to the wife and kids. In my rush to get home, I didn’t take any pictures. I stopped for a total of about 30 minutes to fix a broken pole (watch out for narrow cracks in the ice on Ship Creek!) and chat with friends skiing Arctic to Indian.
Here’s a picture from the last time I was up on Ship Pass. It looked pretty much the same on Saturday. 
I love living close to the Hillside/Chugach/Far North Bicentennial parks. It is one of the main reasons we live where we do. In the winter, when someone says they went skiing at Hiilside it usually means they did laps around the 15 kilometers of trail that is groomed for skate skiing. Sure, the groomed Hillside trails are nice, but I get sick of that loop pretty quickly.
Fortunately, there are at least another 30 kilometers of ski trails at Hillside that I never get sick of. The narrow single-track trails are perfect for old-school classic skiing. Blueberry Hollow, Speedway, Single Track Advocates, Middle Fork Loop, everything on the north side of Campbell Airstrip Road, the list goes on. I’ve been hitting these trails even more than normal recently. The narrow trails and tight turns are tremendous fun. I can ski for a couple of hours, and I feel more energized when I finish than I did when I started.
The proliferation of fat-tire bikes in the past few years means that these trails are almost always well-packed. Snow bikes make great groomers. The trails are even a little too-well packed for my taste, but its worth the trade-off of seeing so many different users (bikers, runners, showshoers, walkers, skiers, sledders) all sharing the same trails. I’ll refrain from a rant about the whole skier/biker/walker conflict non-sense that people in Anchorage just love to get fired up about (refrain for now, anyway. I can feel a rant coming on at some point…). Instead, I’ll just share a map of the loop that I did on Saturday. I started at Service High School and skied for an hour and 45 minutes entirely on narrow trails. Okay, okay the first part of the loop was on classic-only ski trails, but everything else was multi-use.
For the first few years that I lived in Alaska, Scott was my go-to guy for outdoor fun. He was a serious ski racer at that time, but whenever I could distract him from rollerskiing, we’d go do long skis and runs in the mountains. But in 2005, Scott decided he’d rather be an academic than a ski bum, and that he would rather not live 4,000 miles away from his soon-to-be-wife. So he left Alaska. I am fortunate that there are so many cool people to do outdoor adventures with here in Anchorage, but I still miss having Scott around.
Scott and Jess were back in town this past week, and he and I were both looking forward to getting back into the mountains together. As it turned out, we didn’t have a lot of time. We had to squeeze in an afternoon hike during kiddo nap time on Sunday. We went down to Girdwood and hiked up Crow Pass. Then we crossed over Clear Creek and poked around in some side valleys before it was time to head back down.
A short trip, but a great time, as always.
This summer has not been what I hoped it would be, on so many levels. The obvious reason is the rainy weather we’ve been having for two months, but really that’s only a small part what’s been going on for me.
I’m still dealing with weird health issues. They aren’t as bad as they were during the winter, but I still don’t feel right. Work has also been much busier than usual. And finally, my wife gave birth to our second child, a daughter, this spring. Obviously a joyous event, and we are thrilled, but the little one’s had some unexpected rough spots in her first few months, which is super stressful and time-consuming for us as parents.
The net result of all this is that I have done nothing adventurous this summer. I bike to and from work and that’s about it. I did some orienteering events early in the summer, until my back gave out (see: weird health issues, above). My longest hike was up Flattop. Damn, that’s embarrassing. As someone who deals with stress through exercise, its been a tough time for me.
I was finally so desperate to get outside that last week I cashed in some vacation time, simply so I could go for a hike. I wanted to hike all day, but since I haven’t been out at all, I figured I should stick close to home and have a few bail out options. So I left Glen Alps with a loose goal to climb Mt. Williwaw, but my route was undetermined. I ended up going up Little O’Malley and O’Malley peak first, then dropping down to Williwaw Lakes before picking my way up the Williwaw gully. Due to the rain and cold temperatures, the snow in the gully was almost ice. My running shoes couldn’t dig in at all. Luckily I had my ice axe, otherwise I would not have made it up. From the top of Williwaw, I skirted the ridge over towards Koktoya and briefly thought about bagging that one too, but decided not to push it on my first day out. I dropped down to Long Lake, then went up and over the ridge behind Wolverine and back to Glen Alps.
The sun wasn’t out, and it was very windy, but it was a glorious day as far as I was concerned. I was able to sweat out a lot of frustration during those 18 miles and 7500 feet of vertical. I didn’t go fast, but I was encouraged that I felt pretty good even after seven and a half hours. Thank god it’s hard to lose base endurance.
April was pretty much a dud for crust skiing, which was fine by me because I couldn’t have gone anyway. Fortunately, the crust improved just when I was ready to go again. But now it’s May, which means snow is going fast. Gotta get it while it lasts!
Tim, Benji and I explored the South Fork of Eagle River. It was a little patchy before getting to Eagle and Symphony Lakes, but really good beyond that. We explored the valley behind Symphony Lake quite a bit and climbed up into a cirque before turning around. Then we crossed over to Eagle Lake, but we didn’t make it too far up that valley before coming across a brown bear sow and two cubs. The crust was already starting to soften, so we decided that was a good place to turn around and head back.
For some reason, I thought I had left my camera at home. But then I found it in my backpack halfway through the ski. Duh.
Tim was smart enough to know that he had his camera with him the whole time. So he got a lot more pictures.