Posts Tagged ‘pass’

Crust Skiing Devil’s Pass and Resurrection Pass from Summit Creek

Saturday, May 8th, 2010

For years I’ve wanted to crust ski up Summit Creek, which is just west of Summit Lake in the Kenai Mountains. My hope was that once I got up there, I could make some cool loops with Resurrection Pass and Devil’s Pass. Two years ago, Tim, Tim, Benji and I tried going up Summit Creek, but it wasn’t good so we bailed to Turnagain Pass instead.

Today I wanted to try again, even though I suspected that snow conditions would be about the same as last time. I went alone, mainly because I was afraid that I’d get denied again. But I just had to know if it was any good. I resolved that I would go anyway and just hike as high as I needed to get to snow.

Well, no hiking necessary. It was amazing.

When I got there, I made a last-minute decision to head up towards Gilpatrick Mountain, which is one valley south of Summit Creek. It looked like it would be better skiing. Summit Creek still looked poor, but I figured if I was able to complete a loop I could hit Summit Creek on the way down. It would be easier to handle poor snow and alders on the descent. Plus, Gilpatrick Mountain looked like it would be VERY avalanche-prone once the snow got wet and heavy. I wanted to hit it early when it was solid. Summit Creek definitely has avalanche dangers as well, but the areas are more obvious and many of them had slid recently.

I started skiing at 7 AM. The first hour and a half to the first pass was relentlessly uphill, but the crust was excellent and after that it was great cruising. I went over Gilpatrick Mountain, down to Devil’s Pass, through Resurrection Pass, over to East Creek, up East Creek to the pass by Summit Creek and then down Summit Creek back to the car. It was a 25 mile loop and took just over 4 hours.

I took lots of pictures, but I was alone and not really in the mood to stop, so all the pictures are crust and mountains. The pictures don’t really do it justice. The crust was perfect the whole way, the mountains were beautiful, and it was a really interesting loop.

One of the best skis (crust or otherwise) I’ve ever had. The only thing it was missing (compared to some other great crust skis) was spectacular glacier views. But no complaints, the rest was awesome.

Map and photos:

 

The Summit Devil's Resurrection

 

Powerline Pass Trail Run

Saturday, July 26th, 2003

 

Saturday July 26 – Powerline Pass Trail Run
I was pretty beat up after Crow Pass, more than I expected to be. Sure, I knew it would be a very hard three to four hour run, but I figured that after a few easy days I would be back on the trails. I had run the last half of Crow Pass with a slight cramp in my right calf. At least I thought it was a cramp. When it hurt enough that I still couldn’t run on Wednesday of this week, I finally figured out it was a muscle strain. I gave it a couple more easy days, hoping I would be well enough to race the Powerline Pass Race.

Powerline Pass is a new race that starts at sea-level, climbs steeply up to 3500 foot Powerline Pass in five miles, then descends for about 1000 before leveling out for the last half of the 11 mile race. It was similar to many of the other great Alaskan trail running races that I was starting to become familiar with. I really wanted to do this one, because it was the first year of the race, and I thought it had potential to become one of the most popular races. Since there are races I can’t get into because I am new to the area (Mount Marathon) it would be nice to get in on one from the beginning. Kind of like seeing a band in a club before they get big.

On Friday my calf was still hurting but I really wanted to race. I decided I would jog over to race registration (about three miles from my house). If I could make it there, I would sign up. The run over was fairly painless, except for the one uphill, which really hurt. Hmm, not a good sign for a race that climbs 3500 feet. But, refusing to accept not even trying I signed up,a nd figured I would make a final decision during my pre-race warm-up.

Also affecting my race decision was the fact that my girlfriend (okay, actually she’s my fiancee but I dislike that word – seems kind of snooty) was signed up and ready for her biggest running event ever. I was extremely excited that, after watching Crow Pass last weekend, she immediately decided she wanted to give Powerline Pass a try.

Linda is in good shape and is a willing partner in most outdoor adventures, but she would never consider herself a runner. Runners are those people who wear the short shorts and singlets. Anyway, as much as I wanted to race, I thought maybe the pain in my leg was trying to tell me that this was Linda’s day. I should just be her support team, as she has done many, many times for me.

I drove her to the start this morning, thinking I would be fine with sitting this one out. Of course, I was dressed to run, with my number on just in case. Linda and I went for a short warm-up run. My leg felt better than yesterday, but was still tight. As the start neared, my competitive juices started flowing and I knew that despite my best intentions, my competitive instincts were going to get the best of me. I was going to race. I rationalized it by saying that if it hurt, I would back off and run with Linda.

From the start I felt a bit tired, but the leg was fine. Amazing, the pain and tightness was gone for the whole race. I was a little frustrated that there seemed to be a lot of people ahead of me, twenty or so, but without having any expectations I was able to enjoy a nice, hard run through the mountains. When I finished, a few people commented to me that I was crazy for running both Crow Pass and then this. And these were people who had run Crow Pass, then sat this one out. It never occurred to me that I would need more than a week to recover from Crow Pass. After all, in the winter, we frequently race 50K marathons only a week apart. I had forgotten that marathon runners rarely run more than one a month. Hmm, maybe that was why I felt tired today. I was pleased to see that even though I was not near the top of the results, only one person ahead of me had run Crow Pass as well. In fact one guy who beat me at Crow Pass came in well after me this weekend.

I basked in this accomplishment for about thirty seconds, they realized I now had to fulfill my support duties. I ran put on a dry shirt, grabbed some water and headed back out on the course to jog in with Linda. She came along much sooner than I expected and was moving quickly enough that I really struggled to keep up with her to the finish. I was very excited about her accomplishment. I may make her into a slightly insane endurance athlete yet. She may not be a runner, but she sure beat a few out there.

Crow Pass Crossing

Saturday, July 19th, 2003

Saturday July 19
Back in April, when I didn’t get into the Mountain Marathon, I circled a different date on my calendar as my ‘big race of the summer.’ That date was July 19, and the race was the Crow Pass Crossing.

The Crow Pass Crossing is a foot race through the backcountry of the Chugach Mountains. It starts south of Anchorage, near Girdwood, and travels up and over Crow Pass, down to Eagle River which is about halfway through the race. You then ford Eagle River, which the race entry form describes as a ‘quarter-mile wide, glacier-fed, thigh-deep, torrent’ (its not quite a quarter-mile wide). From there the ‘trail’ (and I used that term loosely) follows Eagle River, with a couple more smaller river crossings, out to the Eagle River Nature Center, which is north of Anchorage and is the finish line. The whole race is between 24 and 28 miles (no one really knows because it is too hard to measure).

It is a very hard race, and because it is so remote, the race organizers need to make sure that everyone who enters is capable of finishing in under 6 hours (the maximum time allowed). A few more quotes from the entry form:

“This is a risk filled and dangerous race. Bad things can and usually do happen. Someone has been injured or imperiled each year. There are very real hazards and little chance for immediate medical aid if needed. Racers are asked to please assist their fallen brethren. COmmunication is nigh onto impossible.”

“Don’t be stupid. Do not make this your first experience with the trail. If you believe you are special, you are wrong.”

And the list of hazards:

Good stuff. The entry form seemed like overkill, but maybe I was underestimating this race.

My first major decision was what kind of pack to take. I had seen from a picture in the newspaper, that the winner usually only carries a water bottle belt and then duct-tapes the required clothing to it. Required clothing is: hat, gloves, long underwear top & bottom, windbreaker and pants. I had planned to take an Ultimate Direction pack (like a Camelbak). Was that too much? I couldn’t see how one water bottle would be enough. So I went with the pack and 96oz of sport drink.


Crow Pass Crossing start


I’m in there somewhere

With this decision made, I found myself at the start line bright and early at 7:00 am. The first four miles of the race were uphill to the top of Crow Pass. At the top, I think I was in 8th place. The next ten miles were downhill to the river crossing. I knew that downhill running was not my strong point, but I moved my legs as fast as I could over the rocky terrain. Soon after we started the descent, the trail became overgrown with cow parsnip, devil’s club, and other wonderful weeds. The trail was still rocky and uneven, but now I couldn’t even see my feet because of the poisonous weeds all around me. I kept pushing, hoping with each step that my foot would land safely. Occasionally, it would not, and I would trip or fall flat on my face. Every time, I had to bounce back up and keep pushing. It is extremely hard to run all out when you can’t see the trail under your feet.

For the first half of the descent, there were two guys coming up behind me, Mark Strabel and Ben Speiss. When they caught up, I turned to ask if they wanted to go by…except they weren’t there anymore. That was weird. After the race, Mark explained that he had tripped and fallen and lost a few seconds. Then when he got up and continued his pursuit, he came around a corner and there was a bear in the middle of the trail. I never saw it, but it must have been right there when I went by, since I was only a few seconds ahead. Mark waited some more precious seconds while the bear moved off the trail and then he continued.

Ben caught me a few minutes later, and I followed him down to the river. I found it much easier to follow someone else. The river was apparently much higher than usual. It came up to mid-thigh on me. Lars Spurkland claimed it came up to his waist, but since he is about 6’8″, he must have been crossing on his knees or way off course.

When we got out of the water on the other side, my feet felt really weird. The icy water had numbed them, but as the feeling started to come back, I felt like I was running in clogs – my shoes felt hard, unforgiving and about 4 sizes too big. The feeling went away after a few minutes and I began to feel really good. I passed Ben and began to pull away. I lost time at the next river crossing and he caught up again, but I pulled away again. I knew that these couple of miles were the best trail I would see all day and I needed to take advantage of it. I was moving pretty well. Every time I stumbled I would feel my calf muscles start to cramp, but they would release. I began to wonder how long I had before they cramped up for good. The cramping made me notice that, even though I felt strong, I also felt dehydrated. I was drinking plenty of my sports drink, how could this be? I began drinking more often.

Soon enough I was back into the thick brush, rocks, and roots and struggling to maintain my balance on every stride. Many of the rocks and trees had drops of blood on them from other competitors. I would do a ‘superman’ (fall forward with my arms out in front of me) every ten minutes or so. But I had to keep pushing.

I was feeling more and more dehydrated and I began to think that my sports drink was too saturated. By drinking it, I was dehydrating my body more and more. I began to crave pure water, but I had none. Should I keep drinking the sports drink? I wasn’t sure, but I had no other option, so I did. Just when I began to think that I was slowing down, I saw two people ahead of me. This was a good sign, maybe I wasn’t going really slow through the technical stuff. But over the next 20 minutes, I couldn’t close the gap. Maybe they saw me and speeded up. Just when I thought I was finally going to catch them and move into 6th or 7th place (not sure which), Ben came motoring up from behind. He was now moving very fast and I hitched a ride with him as we reeled in the two ahead.

The four of us ran together until Echo Bend, which is a significant landmark in the race because it is three miles from the finish and the trail is much wider from there on in. At this point we began climbing for a little while. The gap between Ben and the guy behind him was opening up. I waited to see if it would close. When it became obvious that Ben was getting away, I passed the other two guys and reeled Ben in. I was feeling really good. In fact on a number of the hills, all the other guys were walking and I was still running. I passed Ben and was in 5th place and feeling good.

But then a funny thing happened….I bonked on a downhill. Now, I should tell you that I never bonk. Lots of times, I will gradually get tired and slow down, but I almost never have the instantaneous bonk, where you go from feeling decent to feeling awful in a few minutes. In fact I can’t remember a single time this has happened to me. But it happened today. Just after I had passed Ben, we were coming down a hill and he flew by me. At first I thought it was just me not pushing down the hill fast enough, but I couldn’t pick it up. And when we hit the flat I dropped even further behind. Then Trond Jensen came flying by me like I was standing still. I hadn’t seen this guy all race, but now he was charging for the finish, passing about 8 people in the last few miles. There was another guy with him, who I thought was also a racer, but now I am not sure.


Trond Jensen (63) et al. start passing me (third guy) as I bonk

It was at that point that I knew I was bonking. Was it because of the sports drink? The fact that I am not in my best shape? The fact that I have never done a race longer than three hours? I didn’t know, and it didn’t matter. I just had to minimize the damage. Only two miles to the finish. I can do that.

I ran pretty well for the next mile, considering how awful I felt. One of the guys I had left behind earlier came by, but I thought I could hold my position from there on in. Then, with about a mile to go, I lost it. My pace slowed to a crawl. Mark Strabel came flying by me like I was standing still, which I might have been. I could barely move. Each step was a struggle. Fortunately there was no one else close behind me and I was able to fight my way to the finish line in 10th place in about 3 hours and 34 minutes. To show you how slow I was going at the end, Mark passed me with about a half mile left and he beat me by two minutes! Ouch.

I have never felt as bad after a race as I did for the first ten minutes that I sat at the finish line. They handed us all Snickers bars as we crossed the line, but all I wanted was water, and even that was hard to swallow. After a few cups of water, I began to get some life back, but my legs were shot. The were so tight I could barely hobble around.

Going into this race, I had no idea what to expect for a time. I was pretty sure I could do the course in under 4 hours, and I would have been thrilled to go under 3:30. I came close to my goal, and I was happy about that and my top ten finish, but I was still disappointed with my bonk. If I could have finished strong, I might have been sub-3:30 and top 5. I also noticed that everyone around me in the race was carrying a much smaller pack than I was. Something to keep in mind for next year.

I guess I did pretty well for a first-timer, its just that I always expect more. But hey, 3:34 isn’t too bad for a marathon distance through the backcountry of Alaska. And regardless of the finish, it was a worthwhile and fun adventure.

Men’s race article
Women’s race article

Crow Pass Results

Hiking Resurrection Pass Trail, Hope to Cooper Landing

Thursday, May 8th, 2003

 

Sun May 4
Sunday was an off day. Linda and I are leaving on a four day backpacking trip tomorrow and I needed a day to rest up and pack up.

Mon May 5
A couple months ago, some friends of ours, Mike and Tanja mentioned that they would really like to hike the Resurrection Pass trail. The Resurrection Pass trail is a 38 mile trail on the Kenai Peninsula that is known for being one of the most popular backpacking routes in Alaska. Aft era dismal winter, Linda and I were also anxious to get out and start seeing this great state and this seemed like a great way to start. After some discussion and looking for dates we could all do it, we decided to attempt the hike in early May. Normally the higher reaches of the route (only about 2500 feet) would still be buried in snow at this time of year, but we were hopeful that the low snowfall would make it passable. We debated bringing snowshoes right up until the last minute – even having a pair of them on Linda’s pack at the trailhead, before decided to go without them.

This trip was a great chance for me to get in some good trekking hours before my race. I knew the training would not be very hard. After all we would only be covering between 7 and 13 miles each day, and we would be staying in cozy cabins on all three nights. But I was pretty sure that just being outside moving around with a heavy pack on would be of great help to my preparations.

See pictures from this trip in the Gallery.

The first day was an easy 7 mile hike from Hope, Alaska into the Caribou Creek Cabin was fairly flat and easy. We were there in about three hours, which was fine with us because it was raining slightly and we welcomed the chance to dry out before we were completely soaked. We relaxed in the cabin and watched as the rain started to let up.

Tues May 6
The next morning we slept in late and had a leisurely breakfast of pancakes. After all, we only had another 7 miles to go today, there was no rush to get going. It had been cold last night – there was a dusting of fresh snow on the hills around us. But this morning the clouds were clearing off and by the time we got hiking at noon, we had blue sky. Along the trail we saw lots of bear tracks, most of them were very big. We kept talking and kept Teddy, Mike & Tanja’s dog, fairly close by. The tracks looked fresh, but we did not see any bears today. We stopped at Fox Creek Cabin for lunch, then made it to East Creek Cabin, our new home, by about 4:30 or so.

Wed May 7
We expected this to be our hardest day. It was an eleven mile trek up and over Resurrection Pass and back down to our next stop at Swam Lake Cabin. We knew that we would be on the trail a long time today, so we rose early and were on the trail by 9:00. We climbed steadily for the first two hours before hitting snow at about 2000 feet. The pass was indeed covered in snow, but we had hit it early enough in the day that it was still crusty and solid enough to walk on. Every once in a while, one of us would punch through, but for the most part, the travel over the snow was smooth to the pass. As we started descending the south side of the pass, it was now after 1:00 pm and the sun had been hitting this snow for longer. Our post-holing became more frequent and more frustrating. We were extremely happy when we finally put the snow behind us about a mile after Devils Pass cabin and started our steep descent to Swam Lake.

Swan Lake Cabin is a beautiful cabin. Nestled right at the base of Resurrection Pass’s south side, on the shores of Swan Lake, which is a narrow lake that snaked between two steep hillsides. After getting a fire going in the cabin and eating some dinner, Linda and I decided to take the rowboat (which comes with the cabin) out for a paddle. On our paddle we saw plenty of birds and ducks, a caribou, and even a black bear that headed up the shore line ahead of us for quite a distance before eventually jumping in and swimming to the other side. Swan Lake was everything I dreamed the Alaskan wilderness would be.

Our solitude was broken briefly when we saw the first other human since the start of our trip, but he continued up the trail and once again we had the place to ourselves.

Thurs May 8
This morning a pair of Loons came to greet us on the lake. We ate breakfast as we watched the Loons and prepared for our 13 mile trek to the trailhead and the end of our hike. Just after starting our hike, we saw the bear again – this time at much closer distance. He was only about 50 feet off the trail. He watched us walk by and we kept moving, not wanting to get him upset.

During the day we passed by Juneau Lake, which was also very beautiful, and Juneau Falls, which was a very big waterfall – much bigger than I had expected. The trail dumped us out by the Kenai River and we piled into the car we had shuttled down here on Monday and headed back towards home.

It was a leisurely trip, but also a great beginning to a summer of exploring the wilds of Alaska. For training purposes, I wish it had been a little longer or harder, but it was still very good preparation and the fact that my legs did not hurt at all was a very good sign.


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